Planning Your Installation
Step 1Plan on this project taking at least two days for the actual installation. You can't walk on the floor for 24 hours after it's been glued down, so make sure you leave yourself a way to leave the room without walking on the boards. You’ll have to finish the last few rows the following day.
Step 2Bring the flooring into the room so the wood planks can acclimate to the room’s temperature and humidity for at least 72 hours before installation. This reduces problems associated with moisture, such as warping and fit. Stack the flooring in a flat position in the room or rooms where it's to be installed and allow it to acclimate.
Step 3Check the moisture level of the subfloor to make sure the floor is within the manufacturer’s recommendations. If your moisture level isn't within manufacturer’s recommendations, stop the installation and call a Lowe’s associate for help.
Step 4Once you have prepped the subfloor, carefully sweep and vacuum the surface on which the flooring will be installed.
Step 5There are many types of glue on the market. Since moisture can be an issue for wood flooring, it's best to use a glue that has some type of moisture resistance. Many glue systems have two parts: a moisture barrier that's applied before installation and a glue that works with the moisture barrier to secure the floor. A great example is the Bostik glue system which uses Bostik MVP as the moisture barrier and Bostik Best as the glue.
Step 6Check the planks for warping and defects, which typically affect around 5% of the product. These boards are unusable and should be discarded. If more than 5% of the product is defective, stop the installation and call a Lowe’s associate for help.
Installing the First Rows
Step 1Put on your safety glasses and latex gloves.
Step 2Place spacers between the flooring and the wall for the expansion gap.
Step 3Trowel out enough glue for two to three rows at a time since you can't walk on the glue.
Step 4Using the straightest boards, lay the first row of flooring along the guideline, with the tongue side facing the room.
Step 5For the second row, fit the groove on the tongue of the first row.
Step 6Place the second row so that the ends are at least 6 inches apart in each row.
Testing Moisture Meter
Testing with Moisture Meter
All concrete sub-floors can also be tested using a Delmhorst moisture meter, Tramex Concrete Encounter or Wagner Concrete meter. (Check floor in several areas). Test at each outside wall and 1-5 times in center area depending on the size of room for residential, and at each outside wall and every 6’ in center area for commercial.
Tesing without Moisture Meter
Polyfilm : One test per 200 sqf. (minimum 2 tests per jobsite)
Completely tape down 2’x2’ polyfilm squares and leave them for 48 hours. Check for condensation under the plastic. Condensation indicates slab has moisture. Noticeable color changes indicates moisture.
Phenolphthalein : One test per 200 sqf. (minimum 2 tests per jobsite)
Chip small section of concrete off floor and apply 3% Phenolphthalein in alcohol solution (available at most druggists) in the area. Red color indicates moisture. ALWAYS chip concrete as this protects against the possibility that a concrete sealer was applied. Keep phenolphthalein out of direct sunlight. Average shelf life of Phenolphthalein in 6 months. If any of these tests indicate moisture is present in the slab, the calcium chloride test should be run.
Calcium Chloride Test : One test per 1,000 sqf. for 24 hours. See details for NWFA Moisture Testing Procedures.
If calcium chloride test resulted more than 3 lbs, or moisture is present, DO NOT install, find the source of moisture and correct it.
Tools & Materials:
Hammer, Power saw, Chalk line, Flooring nails, Tape measure, 15 lbs. asphalt felt, Flooring cleaner, Moisture meter.
* 15 lbs. asphalt felt is not considered a moisture barrier. Use of extra moisture barrier (6 mil polyethylene film minimum) may be required if necessary.
Recommended Nail : 3-1/4” wide products 5” wide products
: Model 200, 1-1/2”, 20 gage, 85 PSI, U1 PAD with 1 SHIM.
: Model 50P, 1-1/2”, 18 gage, 85 PSI, .200 PAD with 2 SHIMS.
Model 200, 1-1/2”, 20 gage, 85 PSI, U1 PAD with 1 SHIM.
UV oil is a unique way of emphasizing the rich colors of natural wood, containing primarily cold pressed vegetable oils and aromatic hardening oils, penetrate into the surface of the wood floor and, as they cure, harden to form a very protective surface that becomes part of the wood floor. This means that normal wear and tear, such as small scratches and indentations, do not show up as much as on a floor with a urethane finish. The oil finish will also let the wood floor breathe through its surface, not just along its edges.
UV oiled floors are different from natural oiled floors as they are cured using UV lights, protecting the wood from natural sunlight. This is a popular choice with prefinished floors as the manufacturer can apply a factory finish quickly and the end user can have a floor that requires no additional oiling after installation.
Your hardwood floor is a major investment that can add value to the look and feel of a home. If they are cared for and maintained well, they can last for a very long time. No matter what type of hardwood floors you have, proper care and maintenance is absolutely essential to keep hardwood floors looking its best. Here are simple tips and guidelines to follow that will help maintain the finish and the natural beauty of your hardwood floors:
January 24th, 2014
Care & Maintenance Instructions for UV Oiled Floors
The best way to remove loose, coarse dirt (e.g. dust and sand particles) is the regular use of a Vacuum, Soft Brush or Dust Mop. DO NOT USE A VACUUM WITH A BEATER BAR/BRUSH.
After dry cleaning, clean your floor with ROYAL OAK COLLECTION Hydro Cleaner Wood
Floor Cleaner for sealed and oiled wood flooring.
WHY HARDWOOD FLOOR
Hardwood floors are one of the most important design elements in your home or business. No matter what your lifestyle, wood floors add value and comfort to any décor, but with all the choices available today, selecting the right floor can be daunting.
ROYAL OAK HARDWOOD FLOORING
Inspired by French Chateau’s, Italian Villas and English Manors, the Royal Oak Collection includes naturally aged and distressed European Oak flooring that look and feels naturally worn presenting an authentic antique old world appearance. European Oak flooring is a natural product. Each tree, each board, is unique. It has its own individual characters include closed and open knots, natural splits, and color variations. All of its characteristics is after all, the attraction of real wood, and therefore, will never date.
Over the years the floors will mature and the color will deepen, increasing richness and depth. The timeless beauty of Royal Oak Collection compliments both contemporary and traditional architectures lending a feeling of warmth and ideal for new developments, commercial/retail spaces, and private residences.
Wood is a natural product subject to color, character and grain variations. Mineral streaks, knots, splits, cracks and other imperfections may also be present and are not considered defects of the hardwood floor. We can not guarantee that the wood you order will exactly match this sample board because real wood is an organic material and will vary somewhat from tree to tree and board to board.
Specifications Dimensions: T : 5/8” W : 7-½” L : 37-½” & 75”
Installation: Glue down, staple or float:
Warranty: 25 year residential surface finish warranty. 3 year commercial surface finish warranty. Lifetime structural integrity warranty.
Is engineered flooring real wood?
Yes, engineered flooring is made up of real wood veneers (generally3, 5 or 7 plys) . The graining of each layer runs in the opposite direction of the layer above and below it, thus acting as a check and balance system, keeping the wood from expanding or shrinking too far in one direction.
Laminate: pressed particle board with a photograph of wood applied to the surface.
Laminate flooring contains NO actual wood. It can be installed almost anywhere, using a click together or glue installation.
Solid: Generally a 3/4” thick solid piece of wood. It can be installed on or above grade by a staple or nail down application.
Engineered: Flooring made up of layers of real wood veneers. The graining of each layer runs in the opposite direction of the layer above and below it, thus acting as a check and balance system, keeping the wood from expanding or shrinking too far in one direction. Engineered floors are ideal for areas of high humidity or dramatic temperature changes. It can be installed above, on or below grade using glue, nail, staple or floating applications.
Having a child can cause first-time parents to re-examine many aspects of their home to ensure that it is as safe as possible. While there are several easily recognizable safety precautions, such as protecting electrical outlets or sharp corners, many homeowners may overlook the importance of choosing a safe flooring option. CBS affiliate KVAL reports that many toxic chemicals can make their way into the home through the floor.
Vinyl products are a huge concern," expert Ivy Sager-Rosenthal told the news source. "So that would include vinyl flooring, vinyl wallpaper. Vinyl is just not a healthy choice for families."
Nonprofit group Healthy Stuff.org conducted an extensive study of more than 3,000 samples of flooring and wallpaper and found that many contained high levels of harmful metals and chemicals.
For many new homeowners, one of the first areas that is addressed is how to furnish the floor. While some may think that wall-to-wall carpeting is the ideal choice, experts say that there are a number of drawbacks to the traditional floor covering. The San Jose Mercury News reports that hardwood flooring is a better choice for a wide array of reasons.
One of the largest advantages that hardwood flooring boasts over carpeting is how much easier it is be kept clean. Dirt and dust can easily become trapped in carpeting, which can have a negative impact on the indoor air quality. Conversely, hardwood is easy to clean as regular sweeping can capture most dirt and debris.
Along with being easily kept clean, hardwood flooring offers a pleasing aesthetic choice as well. The news source reports that real estate agents find that homes with hardwood flooring are much more popular than those outfitted with other materials.
FINISH WARRANTY – 25 YEARS
Millstone Wood Flooring warrants to the original purchaser that its factory applied surface finish will not wear through or separate from the floor for a period of 25 years from purchasing date, when used under normal residential traffic conditions. ENGINEERED STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY A LIFETIME WARRANTY
Millstone Wood Flooring warrants to the original purchaser that its Engineered Factory Finished Hardwood Flooring will not delaminate (separation between plies) in normal environmental conditions, when used in residential applications, for a lifetime period.
STAPLE OR NAIL DOWN INSTALLATION
Tools & Materials:
- Power saw, hammer, chalk line and tool listed below
- Staple Gun: Stanley Mark 3
- Staples: 1 1/2” Staples For 1/2” for MIFS or 1-1/2” Power cleats for Model 445
Sub floor & Preparation:
Sub floors should be flat to 3/16” per 8’ radius. If sub floor prep work is required, “highs” should be ground down and the “lows” filled with an underlayment patch. Acceptable sub floors are the following:
Acceptable sub floors are the following:
GLUE DOWN INSTALLATION
Tools & Materials: Hammer, hand or power saw, chalk line, proper adhesive (see below) and proper trowel (see Figure 1 below)
Franklin # 821 or # 811 Urethane Adhesives
Suggested Notched Trowels:
Engineered Plank Flooring (over level sub floor) use a 3/16”w x ¼”d x ½’ c-c V - Notch
Engineered Plank Flooring (over un-level sub floor) use a ¼” c ¼” x ¼” square notch
Thoroughly Clean Sub floor: Remove paint, wax, oil, plaster, “sheetrock Mud” and other foreign materials as well as other surface irregularities. All previous or existing glues or adhesives must be removed before installation. #3 1/2 grit open coat paper may need to be used to grind a concrete sub floor. This will loosen any dirt, loose concrete or contaminates. Sweep or vacuum thoroughly.
Sub floor Preparation: If sub floor is concrete, check for dryness. Use the standard rubber mat or taped plastic test. Remove after 24 hours, and then visually inspect the floor for moisture. If moisture is present, DO NOT LAY. All concrete sub floors on or below grade can also be tested using a Delmhorst moisture meter, Model G-40, Tramex Concrete Encounter or Wagner Concrete meter. (Check floor in several areas). Concrete sub floors must be clean, level, sound and of sufficient compression strength (3000 lbs. P.S.I.) being sure that the surface is not slick. Sections not level such as waviness, trowel marks, etc. is to be eliminated by grinding or the use of a leveling compound. Level to 3/16” in an 8’ radius. In addition to cement sub floors, our products can be installed over dry, flat wood sub floors such as plywood. If the plywood is used as an overlay over an existing sub floor, the thickness of the overlay material must be such as to yield a total 3/4” sub floor thickness. New wood type sub floors should also be checked for moisture using a moisture meter. In general, wood or plywood sub floors should not exceed 12% moisture content or 3% moisture content difference between the wood flooring and sub floor. Document your readings if needed in the future. Sub floor irregularities and undulations may cause any wood flooring installation to develop hollow spots between the flooring and sub floor. These hollow spots are NOT the result of any wood flooring manufacturing defect and are NOT covered by the warranty. As part of your sub floor preparation, remove any existing base, shoe mold, or doorway thresholds. These items can be replaced after installation, but should be replaced in such a way to allow at least 1/4” room for expansion and to avoid difficult scribe cuts. This is easily done by placing a piece of the actual flooring on the sub floor as a height guide for your handsaw or jamb saw. NOTE: Normally, expansion space around the perimeter of the room should be the same distance from the wall as the thickness of the hardwood flooring. See NWFA guide for details.
Suggested Layout Working Line: For 3” material, snap a chalk line 30 1/4” from the wall on the door side of the room. This small area will be your working space and the last area to be installed. Temporarily nail straight board on chalk line. See figure 2 below.
Wet-Lay Installation: When using this method, flooring is to be placed into “wet” adhesive and workers do not work on installed wood. The installation begins with the correct trowel (see above). Spread out the adhesive holding the trowel at a 60° angle. Engage the side tongue of a plank into the groove side of a plank in the installed area. Maneuver board in place so it is flush against the side plank and the end plank. After three to four rows of flooring are installed, tape rows together with removable 3M blue masking tape to prevent the floor from moving. Flooring that is not flat must be weighted to ensure good contact. Additional adhesive may be applied to fill minor voids. As you work, immediately clean any adhesive off pre-finished flooring with Bostik Hand & Tool Towels, Bostik AR 2000 or mineral spirits. Be careful not to rub adhesive residue too aggressively as it will cause a “glossy” halo in the factory finish. After the large part of the room is installed, go to starting area, remove the nailed starter boards, and complete the installation working out of the room. If you must walk on the floor, secure rows with blue tape and step carefully. When installation is complete, use wedges to hold the floor tight. Roll floor with 100 lb roller to insure transfer of adhesive. Installed floor will begin to hold tight in 8 hours, depending on humidity and temperature. Let installed floor cure for 16 before exposing to heavy traffic, and remove wedges prior to installing molding. (Consult with Bostik Findley to confirm.)
When choosing the floating method for engineered wood flooring, the subfloor must be flat to within 3/16” per 10’ radius. The Millstone Hardwood is not warranted for damage due to movement or flexing of the floor when the floating installation method is used.
Millstone Wood Floors installed using the floating method can be installed above grade, on grade, or below grade. When installing over concrete or below grade, a moisture barrier of 6 – 8 mil plastic sheeting is required. Loose lay the sheeting with the seams overlapped 8 inches, and lapped up the wall 4 inches. The plastic can be trimmed at the walls after the molding is installed. Be sure to tape the seams with a plastic packaging tape.
Once the sub floor preparation is complete, and the 6 – 8 mil plastic sheeting is installed, you are ready to install Healthier Choice / Sound Solution Underlayment. Determine the direction that the flooring will run and install the underlayment the same lengthwise direction you plan to install the flooring. Roll out the underlayment butting the edges being sure not to overlap the edges. Be sure to tape the seams with plastic packaging tape.
Once the decision has been made as to the direction the flooring will run, be sure to allow for expansion space (thickness of flooring) around the perimeter of the room. Begin by snapping a chalk line 5” plus the expansion space off the starting wall. If the starting row is out of square, it is recommended that the first row of boards be scribed to allow for expansion, and a straight working line. Use wedges to secure the planks during installation at both the side and ends of each row. Always work with the tongue facing away from the starting wall.
Before starting to glue planks, dry lay (no glue used) a trial layout of the first two rows of flooring. Working from left to right, install planks so that the tongue faces out. Leave a minimum of expansion space the thickness of the floor that is being installed, between flooring and wall. When reaching the end of the first row, cut the plank as necessary to fit. (An easy way to mark the last plank in the row is to place the plank in position with the side tongue against the side of the previously laid plank and the end of the plank against the spacing wedge. Mark across the plank with a pencil and cut along this line).
Insert spacers around all vertical walls every 8” to maintain the expansion space between the flooring and wall. Look for walls that are not straight and use spacers as needed to keep the flooring square and straight.
Apply Franklin Titebond Tongue and Groove Glue in the groove of each plank as you install. Begin 2” from the end and place a 1/8” bead of glue the entire length of the board stopping approximately 2” from the end of the board. Be sure to fully glue the end joint also. (You may want test the glue application on some scrap pieces prior to installation to ensure proper glue transfer and coverage). Failure to follow proper glue application will void all warranties.
Stagger a minimum of 6” between end joints of adjacent planks end joints should not repeat visually across the floor. The floor can be installed in successive rows, or with a stair step approach. We recommend using the stair step method to ensure a tight fit for the first few rows and limiting board separation during the initial set-up. Always use a random pattern to begin the installation.
Most often the last row does not fit in width. When this occurs, follow this simple procedure. Lay a row of boards unglued, tongue toward the wall directly on top of the last row installed. Take a piece of engineered floor with the face down and the tongue side against the wall. The resulting line gives the proper width for the last row which when cut can be wedged into place using a pull bar. Be sure that when the installation is finished the wedges are removed and the expansion spaces are covered with the appropriate moldings. Never attach any moldings to a floating floor. This will cause an obstruction that could cause a failure of an otherwise perfect installation.
Remember, the use of Healthier Choice Underlayment and Franklin Titebond Tongue and Groove Glue will help make the installation much easier. Be sure and follow the manufacturer’s instructions .
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR
ENGINEERED WOOD FLOORING
Inspect ALL materials carefully BEFORE installation. Warranties & Claims DO NOT cover materials with visible defects once they are installed. It is the responsibility of the installer/owner to determine if the job site sub floor and job site conditions are environmentally and structurally acceptable for wood flooring installation. We decline any responsibility for wood floor failure resulting from or connected with the sub floor, subsurface, job site damage or deficiencies after hardwood flooring has been installed. Time at which to install hardwood flooring: Lay only after sheetrock and tile work are thoroughly dried and all but the final woodwork and trim have been completed. The building interior should have been dried and seasoned with a comfortable working temperature of at least 60° F and a relative humidity of 45-55% should exist during installation.
Most flooring is priced by the square foot but is sold by the box.
The square footage is the actual measurement of the area to be covered by flooring. A waste factor of 5% must be added to the amount of square footage of flooring needed to allow for cutting waste.
Example: 10′ x 15′ room
10’x 15’ = 150 sq. ft.
5% x 150 sq. ft. = 7.5 sq. ft. = 8 sq ft
Total sq. ft needed = 158 sq. ft.
Sq. ft. per box = 18 sq. ft.
158/18 = 8.8 = 9 boxes
Number of boxes purchased = 9 boxes
The cutting waste also allows for some minor defects if any in the wood to be cut out.
Solid ¾” - Nail/Staple down – 15 lb felt paper recommended.
All Engineered - Nail/Staple/Float
FLOAT using a leading brand 2 in 1 (moisture barrier) floating floor pad required with leading brand PVA 2 floating floor adhesive.
Solid Floors CANNOT be Floated.
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