<![CDATA[Millstone  Flooring - Blog]]>Sat, 13 Dec 2025 11:32:40 -0800Weebly<![CDATA[How to Remove a Glued Wood Floor]]>Thu, 10 Apr 2014 05:13:22 GMThttp://www.millstonefloor.com/blog/how-to-remove-a-glued-wood-floor<![CDATA[Engineered Wood Flooring Over Concrete]]>Thu, 10 Apr 2014 05:09:06 GMThttp://www.millstonefloor.com/blog/engineered-wood-flooring-over-concretePlanning Your Installation
Step 1Plan on this project taking at least two days for the actual installation. You can't walk on the floor for 24 hours after it's been glued down, so make sure you leave yourself a way to leave the room without walking on the boards. You’ll have to finish the last few rows the following day.


Step 2Bring the flooring into the room so the wood planks can acclimate to the room’s temperature and humidity for at least 72 hours before installation. This reduces problems associated with moisture, such as warping and fit. Stack the flooring in a flat position in the room or rooms where it's to be installed and allow it to acclimate.


Step 3Check the moisture level of the subfloor to make sure the floor is within the manufacturer’s recommendations. If your moisture level isn't within manufacturer’s recommendations, stop the installation and call a Lowe’s associate for help.


Step 4Once you have prepped the subfloor, carefully sweep and vacuum the surface on which the flooring will be installed.


Step 5There are many types of glue on the market. Since moisture can be an issue for wood flooring, it's best to use a glue that has some type of moisture resistance. Many glue systems have two parts: a moisture barrier that's applied before installation and a glue that works with the moisture barrier to secure the floor. A great example is the Bostik glue system which uses Bostik MVP as the moisture barrier and Bostik Best as the glue.


Step 6Check the planks for warping and defects, which typically affect around 5% of the product. These boards are unusable and should be discarded. If more than 5% of the product is defective, stop the installation and call a Lowe’s associate for help.


Installing the First Rows
Step 1Put on your safety glasses and latex gloves.


Step 2Place spacers between the flooring and the wall for the expansion gap.

  • Be sure to check the manufacturer’s recommendations for the appropriate expansion gap.

Step 3Trowel out enough glue for two to three rows at a time since you can't walk on the glue.

  • Make sure you have the correct trowel for the type of glue you're using.
  • Pour glue out of the bucket by tipping the bucket on its side allowing a small amount of glue to pour out.
  • Use the trowel to cut the glue off.
  • Trowel the glue by holding the trowel at a 45-degree angle and using enough pressure to make sure the teeth are in contact with the concrete.

Step 4Using the straightest boards, lay the first row of flooring along the guideline, with the tongue side facing the room.

  • This will serve as a guide for the rest of the room or house.
  • Press the wood firmly into the glue to ensure proper adhesive transfer.
    • The ridges of the glue from troweling should be in contact with the subfloor and also the back of the plank.
  • Use the dead blow hammer and gently tap the tapping block against the flooring to ensure a tight fit.
    • It's important to use a tapping block so you don't damage the tongue and groove system.

Step 5For the second row, fit the groove on the tongue of the first row.

  • Once again, use the dead blow hammer and gently tap the tapping block against the flooring to ensure a tight fit.

Step 6Place the second row so that the ends are at least 6 inches apart in each row.

  • This will help strengthen the floor.
  • This will also give the floor a staggered look, so you may need to cut the first plank.
  • To cut the flooring, lay the plank on its face and cut with a circular saw.
    • Make sure you’re using the correct blade to cut the flooring.
    • Make sure you allow for the appropriate expansion gap.

]]><![CDATA[Testing Moisture Meter]]>Fri, 24 Jan 2014 16:10:20 GMThttp://www.millstonefloor.com/blog/testing-moisture-meter Testing with Moisture Meter
All concrete sub-floors can also be tested using a Delmhorst moisture meter, Tramex Concrete Encounter or Wagner Concrete meter. (Check floor in several areas). Test at each outside wall and 1-5 times in center area depending on the size of room for residential, and at each outside wall and every 6’ in center area for commercial.

Tesing without Moisture Meter

Polyfilm : One test per 200 sqf. (minimum 2 tests per jobsite)
Completely tape down 2’x2’ polyfilm squares and leave them for 48 hours. Check for condensation under the plastic. Condensation indicates slab has moisture. Noticeable color changes indicates moisture.

Phenolphthalein : One test per 200 sqf. (minimum 2 tests per jobsite)
Chip small section of concrete off floor and apply 3% Phenolphthalein in alcohol solution (available at most druggists) in the area. Red color indicates moisture. ALWAYS chip concrete as this protects against the possibility that a concrete sealer was applied. Keep phenolphthalein out of direct sunlight. Average shelf life of Phenolphthalein in 6 months. If any of these tests indicate moisture is present in the slab, the calcium chloride test should be run.

Calcium Chloride Test : One test per 1,000 sqf. for 24 hours. See details for NWFA Moisture Testing Procedures.
If calcium chloride test resulted more than 3 lbs, or moisture is present, DO NOT install, find the source of moisture and correct it.

NAIL-DOWN INSTALLTION

Tools & Materials:
Hammer, Power saw, Chalk line, Flooring nails, Tape measure, 15 lbs. asphalt felt, Flooring cleaner, Moisture meter.
* 15 lbs. asphalt felt is not considered a moisture barrier. Use of extra moisture barrier (6 mil polyethylene film minimum) may be required if necessary.

Recommended Nail : 3-1/4” wide products 5” wide products

Powernail (800-323-1653)
: Model 200, 1-1/2”, 20 gage, 85 PSI, U1 PAD with 1 SHIM.
: Model 50P, 1-1/2”, 18 gage, 85 PSI, .200 PAD with 2 SHIMS.

Model 200, 1-1/2”, 20 gage, 85 PSI, U1 PAD with 1 SHIM.

]]><![CDATA[Engineered Multiply Flooring Installation Instruction]]>Fri, 24 Jan 2014 16:06:52 GMThttp://www.millstonefloor.com/blog/engineered-multiply-flooring-installation-instruction

  • Inspect ALL materials carefully BEFORE installation. Warranties & Claims DO NOT cover materials with visible defects once they are installed. It is the responsibility of the installer to determine if the job site sub-floor and job site conditions are environmentally and structurally acceptable for wood flooring installation. We can’t accept any responsibility for job failure resulting from and associated with sub-surface or job-site environment, climate and deficiencies.

  • The installer and home owner has the final responsibility to inspect as to the condition of the products including quality, finish, and whether it is the correct product ordered (type, quantity, color, grain, size.) Do not install if the flooring is not acceptable. He must use good judgment and reasonable selectivity and hold out or cut off pieces with visible defects whatever the cause. Flooring with obvious defects or imperfections should be trimmed and used in hidden places or discarded. We will not, in any case, be liable for installer’s lack of judgment, quality of installation, labor, installation, and associated costs. Should any boards be un-acceptable, and need to be returned, exchanged or replaced for any reason, contact your supplier immediately. Once installed, the floor is considered as having been accepted by the owner and installer.

  • Hardwood flooring is a product of nature and therefore, not perfect nor identical in grains or color and defects in the flooring can occur in the manufacturing process or naturally as a characteristic of the wood. Our products are manufactured in accordance with accepted industry standards which permit defects for up to 5%. Order 5% additional material above actual square footage of the installation to allow grading and cutting of the wood.

  • The use of color coordinated wood floor putty to cover small cracks and gaps should be considered normal in hardwood flooring installations.

    JOBSITE CONDITIONS & PRE-INSTALLATION PLANNING (Requirements)

  • The building must be structurally completed and enclosed. All outside doors and windows must be in place and have latching mechanisms. All concrete, masonry, plastering, drywall, and paint must also be completed, allowing adequate drying time as to not raise moisture content within the building. All texturing and painting primer coats should be completed.

  • HVAC systems must be fully operated at least 14 days prior to flooring installation, maintaining a consistent room temperature between 60-80°F and relative humidity between 35-55% and should remain at this level year round. This is not only stabilizes the building’s interior, environment, but also is essential when acclimating hardwood flooring to the job site. Wood is a hygroscopic material that expands and contracts depending on the relative humidity level of the environment. Flooring must be stored in a climate controlled area, which is equal to the environment it will be installed 5-7 days prior to the installation, but DON NOT OPEN the carton until you are ready to install.

  • Exterior grading, directing drainage away from the structure, as well as gutters and down-spouts should also be completed. Floors may be installed on, above, or below grade level and are not recommended in full bathrooms.

  • It is essential that basements and crawl spaces are well ventilated and dry. Crawl spaces must be minimum of 24” from the ground to underside of joists. A vapor barrier must be established in crawl spaces using 6 mil polyethylene film with joists overlapped and taped.

  • During the final pre-installation inspection, Subfloor must be checked for moisture content using the appropriate metering device for the wood and concrete. 
  • Tips

    • Work out of several different cartons at the same time to obtain the best distribution of color, grain and shade mixture.

    •   Undercut door casings to avoid difficult scribe cuts, and remove any existing wall base, shoe molding, quarter round or doorway threshold. These items can be replaced after installation, but should be replaced in such a way to allow at least 1/2” room for expansion. See NWFA Installation Guideline for details.

      Subfloor Preparation: All Subfloor must be;

    • Clean, free of wax, paint, oil, plaster, debris. All previous or existing glues or adhesives must be removed before installation. #3 1/2 grit open coat paper may need to be used to grind a concrete sub-floor. This will loosen any dirt, loose concrete or contaminates. Sweep or vacuum thoroughly.

    • Flat to 3/16” per 8’ radius or 1/8” per 6’ radius. If a sub-floor prep work is required, “hills” should be sanded down and the “valleys” filled with an underlayment patch. Subfloor irregularities and undulations may cause any wood flooring installation to develop hollow spots between the flooring and sub-floor. These hollow spots are NOT the result of any wood flooring manufacturing defect and are NOT covered by the warranty.

    • Structurally sound and properly secured with nails or screws every 6” along joists to reduce the possibility of squeaking after installation. Nail or screw any loose areas that squeak or reveal movement and replace any damaged sub-floor or underlayments.

    • Dry and should be covered, wall-to-wall, with 15lb asphalt saturated felt. Lap edges of this felt 4” when positioning it. Double the felt around heat ducts in the floor. It is essential that basements and crawl spaces are well ventilated and dry. Crawl spaces must be minimum of 24” from the ground to underside of joists. A vapor barrier must be established in crawl spaces using 6 mil polyethylene film with joists overlapped and taped. ALL sub-floors must be tested for moisture. See below for an appropriate moisture testing.

      Acceptable sub-floors

    • 5/8” minimum thickness, preferred 3/4” or thicker exterior plywood installed with long edges at right angle to floor joists and staggered so that end joints in adjacent panels break over different joists.

    • 1” x 4” to 6” wide, square edged, kiln dried coniferous lumber, laid diagonally over 16” on center wooden joists. The ends of all boards are to be cut parallel to the center of the joists for solid bearing.

    • 3/4” inch minimum O.S.B. on 19.2” center floor joists system properly nailed. When joist space is greater than 19.2”, flooring may exhibit minimum performance. Adequate and proper nailing as well as soundness of the sub-floor should be ascertained.

    • Concrete sub-floors must be at least 90 days old, clean, level, sound and of sufficient compression strength (3000 lbs. P.S.I.) being sure that the surface is not slick. Sections not level such as waviness, trowel marks, etc. are to be eliminated by grinding or the use of a leveling compound.

    • Do not install over radiant heat system.

    • Appropriate moisture test must be done prior to installation – Always document your readings.

      Wood subfloors

      Check the moisture content of both the sub-floor and the hardwood flooring with a quality calibrated pin moisture. Wood sub-floor must not exceed 12% moisture content, or 3% moisture content difference between hardwood flooring and sub-floor. If sub-floor exceeds this amount, the source of the moisture needs to be located and eliminated before installation.



]]><![CDATA[Care and Maintenance Instructions for UV Oiled Floor]]>Fri, 24 Jan 2014 15:50:18 GMThttp://www.millstonefloor.com/blog/care-and-maintenance-instructions-for-uv-oiled-floor UV oil is a unique way of emphasizing the rich colors of natural wood, containing primarily cold pressed vegetable oils and aromatic hardening oils, penetrate into the surface of the wood floor and, as they cure, harden to form a very protective surface that becomes part of the wood floor. This means that normal wear and tear, such as small scratches and indentations, do not show up as much as on a floor with a urethane finish. The oil finish will also let the wood floor breathe through its surface, not just along its edges.

UV oiled floors are different from natural oiled floors as they are cured using UV lights, protecting the wood from natural sunlight. This is a popular choice with prefinished floors as the manufacturer can apply a factory finish quickly and the end user can have a floor that requires no additional oiling after installation.

Your hardwood floor is a major investment that can add value to the look and feel of a home. If they are cared for and maintained well, they can last for a very long time. No matter what type of hardwood floors you have, proper care and maintenance is absolutely essential to keep hardwood floors looking its best. Here are simple tips and guidelines to follow that will help maintain the finish and the natural beauty of your hardwood floors:

  •   The best way to remove loose, coarse dirt (e.g. dust and sand particles) is the regular use of a soft brush, Dust Mop or vacuum cleaner.

  •   A good-quality doormat placed at the entrance to the room will retain dust and grit.

  •   Your wood needs the right environment: ideally, a room temperature between 60 and 80

    degrees and around 35-55% relative air humidity. Exceeding these limits may cause your floor

    to expand and contract unexpectedly and cause such things as gaps appearing in your floor.

  •   Wipe up any water or other liquids spillages immediately.

  •   Stick felt pads under the legs of all furniture.

  •   Lift and avoid dragging when moving the furniture.

  •   Trim pets’ claws to keep your best friend from scratching the floors.

  •   Regularly vacuum or dust mop your floor to prevent sand or abrasive dust buildup that can

    scratch the floor finish.

  •   Do not use ammonia or oil-based wax, polish, household dust treatment chemicals, abrasive

    cleaners, furniture cleaners.

  •   Do not wet mop the floor, as excess moisture may cause damage to your wood floor.

]]><![CDATA[January 24th, 2014]]>Fri, 24 Jan 2014 15:47:15 GMThttp://www.millstonefloor.com/blog/january-24th-2014 Care & Maintenance Instructions for UV Oiled Floors

Dry Cleaning

The best way to remove loose, coarse dirt (e.g. dust and sand particles) is the regular use of a Vacuum, Soft Brush or Dust Mop. DO NOT USE A VACUUM WITH A BEATER BAR/BRUSH.

Routine Cleaning

After dry cleaning, clean your floor with ROYAL OAK COLLECTION Hydro Cleaner Wood

Floor Cleaner for sealed and oiled wood flooring.
  • For use, spray a light mist over a 6 ft. x 6 ft. (or smaller) square area of the floor. Do not

    pour cleaner directly on the floor. Make light even strokes with a soft cotton cloth or applicator pad to get the desired results. Sponge, String Mops or saturated cloths are not recommended. Spray and mop one small area at a time until you have cleaned the entire surface. After drying, use Hydro Care to maintain your floor. Always test in an inconspicuous area prior to use.

    Protecting your floor

    Before applying ROYAL OAK COLLECTION Hydro Care Wood Floor Protector clean floor

    properly using Hydro Cleaner Wood Floor Cleaner.

    Gently shake to mix for 30 seconds. For use, squirt product onto the floor and spread.

    Work in sections small enough to keep the applicator pad wet. Smooth with the grain. Continue working in sections until the entire floor is finished. When finished, rinse applicator pad with water. Allow to dry at least 1 hour before walking.

  • For best results: always perform a test on a small inconspicuous area that is representative of your whole floor to determine compatibility and to ensure you like the newly polished look before use. Do not apply product too thin or streaking will occur. Coat the entire floor to ensure an even appearance. Allow floor to dry completely before walking (typically 1 hour). A second coat may be applied after 2 hours. Allow 24 hours before heavy traffic. Protect Hydro Care from frost and freezing.

Repair

  • H. Behlen & Bros. repair products are recommended for scratches and gouges.

    Visit the H. Behlen & Bros. website www.mohawk-finishing.com for more information.

  • Minwax maintenance & repair products are recommended for scratches and gouges.

    Visit the Minwax website www.minwax.com for more information.


]]><![CDATA[WHY HARDWOOD FLOOR]]>Tue, 24 Dec 2013 17:44:40 GMThttp://www.millstonefloor.com/blog/why-hardwood-floorHardwood floors are one of the most important design elements in your home or business. No matter what your lifestyle, wood floors add value and comfort to any décor, but with all the choices available today, selecting the right floor can be daunting.

]]><![CDATA[ROYAL OAK HARDWOOD FLOORING]]>Tue, 24 Dec 2013 17:34:05 GMThttp://www.millstonefloor.com/blog/royal-oak-hardwood-flooring Inspired by French Chateau’s, Italian Villas and English Manors, the Royal Oak Collection includes naturally aged and distressed European Oak flooring that look and feels naturally worn presenting an authentic antique old world appearance. European Oak flooring is a natural product. Each tree, each board, is unique. It has its own individual characters include closed and open knots, natural splits, and color variations. All of its characteristics is after all, the attraction of real wood, and therefore, will never date.

Over the years the floors will mature and the color will deepen, increasing richness and depth. The timeless beauty of Royal Oak Collection compliments both contemporary and traditional architectures lending a feeling of warmth and ideal for new developments, commercial/retail spaces, and private residences.

Description
Wood is a natural product subject to color, character and grain variations. Mineral streaks, knots, splits, cracks and other imperfections may also be present and are not considered defects of the hardwood floor. We can not guarantee that the wood you order will exactly match this sample board because real wood is an organic material and will vary somewhat from tree to tree and board to board.
Specifications Dimensions:  T : 5/8”   W : 7-½”   L : 37-½” & 75”
Installation:  Glue down, staple or float:
Warranty:  25 year residential surface finish warranty. 3 year commercial surface finish warranty. Lifetime structural integrity warranty.

]]><![CDATA[Should I choose pre-finished or un-finished hardwood floor?]]>Wed, 06 Mar 2013 17:30:49 GMThttp://www.millstonefloor.com/blog/should-i-choose-pre-finished-or-un-finished-hardwood-floor<![CDATA[How are polyurethane or other surface finises maintained?]]>Wed, 06 Mar 2013 17:03:13 GMThttp://www.millstonefloor.com/blog/how-are-polyurethane-or-other-surface-finises-maintained<![CDATA[There are so many species of hardwood floor. How should a specifier select one?]]>Wed, 06 Mar 2013 17:01:40 GMThttp://www.millstonefloor.com/blog/there-are-so-many-species-of-hardwood-floor-how-should-a-specifier-select-one<![CDATA[Does hardwood flooring go well with most design styles?]]>Wed, 06 Mar 2013 16:59:56 GMThttp://www.millstonefloor.com/blog/does-hardwood-flooring-go-well-with-most-design-styles<![CDATA[Does hardwood flooring promote a healthy indoor environment?]]>Wed, 06 Mar 2013 16:58:37 GMThttp://www.millstonefloor.com/blog/does-hardwood-flooring-promote-a-healthy-indoor-environment<![CDATA[What are some of the advantages of hardwood flooring?]]>Wed, 06 Mar 2013 16:55:50 GMThttp://www.millstonefloor.com/blog/what-are-some-of-the-advantages-of-hardwood-flooring<![CDATA[Which is the Best Flooring ? Millstone Flooring or Duchateau Flooring]]>Thu, 01 Mar 2012 20:20:58 GMThttp://www.millstonefloor.com/blog/which-is-the-best-flooring-millstone-flooring-or-duchateau-flooring]]><![CDATA[Is engineered flooring real wood?]]>Sun, 23 Jan 2011 17:49:28 GMThttp://www.millstonefloor.com/blog/is-engineered-flooring-real-woodYes, engineered flooring is made up of real wood veneers (generally3, 5 or 7 plys) . The graining of each layer runs in the opposite direction of the layer above and below it, thus acting as a check and balance system, keeping the wood from expanding or shrinking too far in one direction. ]]><![CDATA[What is the difference between laminate, engineered and solid wood flooring?]]>Sun, 23 Jan 2011 17:47:54 GMThttp://www.millstonefloor.com/blog/what-is-the-difference-between-laminate-engineered-and-solid-wood-flooringLaminate: pressed particle board with a photograph of wood applied to the surface.
Laminate flooring contains NO actual wood. It can be installed almost anywhere, using a click together or glue installation.
Solid: Generally a 3/4” thick solid piece of wood. It can be installed on or above grade by a staple or nail down application.
Engineered: Flooring made up of layers of real wood veneers. The graining of each layer runs in the opposite direction of the layer above and below it, thus acting as a check and balance system, keeping the wood from expanding or shrinking too far in one direction. Engineered floors are ideal for areas of high humidity or dramatic temperature changes. It can be installed above, on or below grade using glue, nail, staple or floating applications. ]]><![CDATA[Engineered hardwood a good choice for homes with young children]]>Sun, 23 Jan 2011 17:39:48 GMThttp://www.millstonefloor.com/blog/engineered-hardwood-a-good-choice-for-homes-with-young-childrenHaving a child can cause first-time parents to re-examine many aspects of their home to ensure that it is as safe as possible. While there are several easily recognizable safety precautions, such as protecting electrical outlets or sharp corners, many homeowners may overlook the importance of choosing a safe flooring option. CBS affiliate KVAL reports that many toxic chemicals can make their way into the home through the floor.
 Vinyl products are a huge concern," expert Ivy Sager-Rosenthal told the news source. "So that would include vinyl flooring, vinyl wallpaper. Vinyl is just not a healthy choice for families."
Nonprofit group Healthy Stuff.org conducted an extensive study of more than 3,000 samples of flooring and wallpaper and found that many contained high levels of harmful metals and chemicals.
]]><![CDATA[Hardwood flooring the easy choice over carpeting]]>Sun, 23 Jan 2011 17:36:49 GMThttp://www.millstonefloor.com/blog/hardwood-flooring-the-easy-choice-over-carpetingFor many new homeowners, one of the first areas that is addressed is how to furnish the floor. While some may think that wall-to-wall carpeting is the ideal choice, experts say that there are a number of drawbacks to the traditional floor covering. The San Jose Mercury News reports that hardwood flooring is a better choice for a wide array of reasons.
One of the largest advantages that hardwood flooring boasts over carpeting is how much easier it is be kept clean. Dirt and dust can easily become trapped in carpeting, which can have a negative impact on the indoor air quality. Conversely, hardwood is easy to clean as regular sweeping can capture most dirt and debris.
Along with being easily kept clean, hardwood flooring offers a pleasing aesthetic choice as well. The news source reports that real estate agents find that homes with hardwood flooring are much more popular than those outfitted with other materials.
]]><![CDATA[FINISH WARRANTY – 25 YEARS]]>Sun, 23 Jan 2011 04:54:40 GMThttp://www.millstonefloor.com/blog/finish-warranty-25-yearsMillstone Wood Flooring warrants to the original purchaser that its factory applied surface finish will not wear through or separate from the floor for a period of 25 years from purchasing date, when used under normal residential traffic conditions. ENGINEERED STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY A LIFETIME WARRANTY
Millstone Wood Flooring warrants to the original purchaser that its Engineered Factory Finished Hardwood Flooring will not delaminate (separation between plies) in normal environmental conditions, when used in residential applications, for a lifetime period.]]><![CDATA[STAPLE OR NAIL DOWN INSTALLATION]]>Sun, 23 Jan 2011 04:53:31 GMThttp://www.millstonefloor.com/blog/staple-or-nail-down-installationTools & Materials:
- Power saw, hammer, chalk line and tool listed below
- Staple Gun: Stanley Mark 3
- Staples: 1 1/2” Staples For 1/2” for MIFS or 1-1/2” Power cleats for Model 445

Sub floor & Preparation:
Sub floors should be flat to 3/16” per 8’ radius. If sub floor prep work is required, “highs” should be ground down and the “lows” filled with an under­layment patch. Acceptable sub floors are the following:

Acceptable sub floors are the following:

  • 5/8” minimum thickness, preferred 3/4” or thicker exterior plywood installed with long  edges at right angle to floor joists and staggered so that end joints in adjacent panels break over different joists.
  • 1” x 4” to 6” wide, square edged, kiln dried coniferous lumber, laid diagonally over 16”   on center wooden joists. The ends of all boards are to be cut parallel to the center of the joists for solid bearing.
  • 3/4 inch minimum O.S.B. on 19.2 inch center floor joists system properly nailed. New wood type sub floors should be checked for moisture using a moisture meter. In general wood or plywood sub floors should not exceed 12% moisture content, or 3% moisture content difference between hardwood flooring and sub floor. Adequate and proper nailing as well as soundness of the sub floor should be ascertained. Foreign material shall be removed from the sub floor surface and swept clean. The clean sub floor should be covered, wall-to-wall, with 15­lb asphalt saturated felt. Lap edges of this felt 4” when positioning it. Double the felt around heat ducts in the floor. Basement and crawl spaces must be dry and well ventilated. Crawl spaces must have a vapor barrier below sub floor on ground (6 or 8 mil. Poly)
General Installation Instructions (see NWFA for more details):

  • Flooring should be laid at right angles to the floor joists and, if possible, in the direc­tion of the longest dimension of the room.
  • All products have a UV-cured factory finish. It is important to make sure that the nail gun face plate will not damage the surface finish. 3M Blue tape can be placed on the faceplate to prevent damages.
  • Starting to lay flooring: Begin laying T&G plank flooring in a room corner with the long groove of the plank facing the wall. Provide expansion space equal to the overall thickness of the wood flooring plank between the floor boards and the adjacent wall.
  • End joints of plank: These should be staggered to achieve the best appearance in the finished floor. (minimum 6”)
  • Nailing schedule for flooring: The first run should be faced nailed then counter sunk. All other runs to be nailed at an angle of 50° on 8” centers at the tongue, also nail within 2” of each end joint.  
Important Notes:

  • Do not open flooring packages until you are ready to begin installation.   
  • A concrete slab is considered below grade when any part of the slab is below ground level—for example, basements are below grade.
  • Baseboards should be installed so that their lower edge is slightly above the level of the finished floor, but not nailed into the floor.
  • Do not install over radiant heat floors
  • Do not install any product with visible defects
  • To avoid movement in hardwood floor, relative humidity should be maintained year round at 45% 55% Relative Humidity.
  • The use of color coordinated wood floor putty to cover small cracks and gaps should be considered normal in hardwood flooring installations.
  • See Warranty & Maintenance for more information.
]]><![CDATA[GLUE DOWN INSTALLATION]]>Sun, 23 Jan 2011 04:52:19 GMThttp://www.millstonefloor.com/blog/glue-down-installationTools & Materials: Hammer, hand or power saw, chalk line, proper adhesive (see below) and proper trowel (see Figure 1 below)

Franklin # 821 or # 811 Urethane Adhesives

Suggested Notched Trowels:
 Engineered Plank Flooring (over level sub floor) use a 3/16”w x ¼”d x ½’ c-c V - Notch
 Engineered Plank Flooring (over un-level sub floor) use a ¼” c ¼” x ¼” square notch
                                   

Thoroughly Clean Sub floor: Remove paint, wax, oil, plaster, “sheetrock Mud” and other foreign materials as well as other surface irregularities. All previous or existing glues or adhesives must be removed before installation. #3 1/2 grit open coat paper may need to be used to grind a concrete sub floor.  This will loosen any dirt, loose concrete or contaminates. Sweep or vacuum thoroughly.
Sub floor Preparation: If sub floor is concrete, check for dryness. Use the standard rubber mat or taped plastic test. Remove after 24 hours, and then visually inspect the floor for moisture. If moisture is present, DO NOT LAY. All concrete sub floors on or below grade can also be tested using a Delmhorst moisture meter, Model G-40, Tramex Concrete Encounter or Wagner Concrete meter. (Check floor in several areas). Concrete sub floors must be clean, level, sound and of sufficient compression strength (3000 lbs. P.S.I.) being sure that the surface is not slick. Sections not level such as waviness, trowel marks, etc. is to be eliminated by grinding or the use of a leveling compound. Level to 3/16” in an 8’ radius. In addition to cement sub floors, our products can be installed over dry, flat wood sub floors such as plywood. If the plywood is used as an overlay over an existing sub floor, the thickness of the overlay material must be such as to yield a total 3/4” sub floor thickness. New wood type sub floors should also be checked for moisture using a moisture meter. In general, wood or plywood sub floors should not exceed 12% moisture content or 3% moisture content difference between the wood flooring and sub floor. Document your readings if needed in the future. Sub floor irregularities and undulations may cause any wood flooring installation to develop hollow spots between the flooring and sub floor. These hollow spots are NOT the result of any wood flooring manufacturing defect and are NOT covered by the warranty. As part of your sub floor preparation, remove any existing base, shoe mold, or doorway thresh­olds. These items can be replaced after installation, but should be replaced in such a way to allow at least 1/4” room for expansion and to avoid difficult scribe cuts. This is easily done by placing a piece of the actual flooring on the sub floor as a height guide for your handsaw or jamb saw. NOTE: Normally, expansion space around the perimeter of the room should be the same distance from the wall as the thickness of the hardwood flooring. See NWFA guide for details.
Suggested Layout Working Line:  For 3” material, snap a chalk line 30 1/4” from the wall on the door side of the room. This small area will be your working space and the last area to be installed. Temporarily nail straight board on chalk line. See figure 2 below.
Wet-Lay Installation: When using this method, flooring is to be placed into “wet” adhesive and workers do not work on installed wood. The installation begins with the correct trowel (see above). Spread out the adhesive holding the trowel at a 60° angle. Engage the side tongue of a plank into the groove side of a plank in the installed area.  Maneuver board in place so it is flush against the side plank and the end plank. After three to four rows of flooring are installed, tape rows together with removable 3M blue masking tape to prevent the floor from moving. Flooring that is not flat must be weighted to ensure good contact. Additional adhesive may be applied to fill minor voids. As you work, immediately clean any adhesive off pre-finished flooring with Bostik Hand & Tool Towels, Bostik AR 2000 or mineral spirits. Be careful not to rub adhesive residue too aggressively as it will cause a “glossy” halo in the factory finish. After the large part of the room is installed, go to starting area, remove the nailed starter boards, and complete the installation working out of the room. If you must walk on the floor, secure rows with blue tape and step carefully. When installation is complete, use wedges to hold the floor tight. Roll floor with 100 lb roller to insure transfer of adhesive. Installed floor will begin to hold tight in 8 hours, depending on humidity and temperature. Let installed floor cure for 16 before exposing to heavy traffic, and remove wedges prior to installing molding.  (Consult with Bostik Findley to confirm.)]]><![CDATA[FLOATING INSTALLATION]]>Sun, 23 Jan 2011 04:51:02 GMThttp://www.millstonefloor.com/blog/floating-installationWhen choosing the floating method for engineered wood flooring, the subfloor must be flat to within 3/16” per 10’ radius. The Millstone Hardwood is not warranted for damage due to movement or flexing of the floor when the floating installation method is used.
Millstone Wood Floors installed using the floating method can be installed above grade, on grade, or below grade. When installing over concrete or below grade, a moisture barrier of 6 – 8 mil plastic sheeting is required. Loose lay the sheeting with the seams overlapped 8 inches, and lapped up the wall 4 inches. The plastic can be trimmed at the walls after the molding is installed. Be sure to tape the seams with a plastic packaging tape.
Once the sub floor preparation is complete, and the 6 – 8 mil plastic sheeting is installed, you are ready to install Healthier Choice / Sound Solution Underlayment. Determine the direction that the flooring will run and install the underlayment the same lengthwise direction you plan to install the flooring. Roll out the underlayment butting the edges being sure not to overlap the edges. Be sure to tape the seams with plastic packaging tape.
Once the decision has been made as to the direction the flooring will run, be sure to allow for expansion space (thickness of flooring) around the perimeter of the room. Begin by snapping a chalk line 5” plus the expansion space off the starting wall. If the starting row is out of square, it is recommended that the first row of boards be scribed to allow for expansion, and a straight working line. Use wedges to secure the planks during installation at both the side and ends of each row. Always work with the tongue facing away from the starting wall.
Before starting to glue planks, dry lay (no glue used) a trial layout of the first two rows of flooring. Working from left to right, install planks so that the tongue faces out. Leave a minimum of expansion space the thickness of the floor that is being installed, between flooring and wall. When reaching the end of the first row, cut the plank as necessary to fit. (An easy way to mark the last plank in the row is to place the plank in position with the side tongue against the side of the previously laid plank and the end of the plank against the spacing wedge. Mark across the plank with a pencil and cut along this line).
Insert spacers around all vertical walls every 8” to maintain the expansion space between the flooring and wall. Look for walls that are not straight and use spacers as needed to keep the flooring square and straight.
Apply Franklin Titebond Tongue and Groove Glue in the groove of each plank as you install. Begin 2” from the end and place a 1/8” bead of glue the entire length of the board stopping approximately 2” from the end of the board. Be sure to fully glue the end joint also. (You may want test the glue application on some scrap pieces prior to installation to ensure proper glue transfer and coverage). Failure to follow proper glue application will void all warranties. 
Stagger a minimum of 6” between end joints of adjacent planks end joints should not repeat visually across the floor. The floor can be installed in successive rows, or with a stair step approach. We recommend using the stair step method to ensure a tight fit for the first few rows and limiting board separation during the initial set-up. Always use a random pattern to begin the installation.
Most often the last row does not fit in width. When this occurs, follow this simple procedure. Lay a row of boards unglued, tongue toward the wall directly on top of the last row installed. Take a piece of engineered floor with the face down and the tongue side against the wall. The resulting line gives the proper width for the last row which when cut can be wedged into place using a pull bar. Be sure that when the installation is finished the wedges are removed and the expansion spaces are covered with the appropriate moldings. Never attach any moldings to a floating floor. This will cause an obstruction that could cause a failure of an otherwise perfect installation.
Remember, the use of Healthier Choice Underlayment and Franklin Titebond Tongue and Groove Glue will help make the installation much easier. Be sure and follow the manufacturer’s instructions .
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR
ENGINEERED WOOD FLOORING
IMPORTANT!
Inspect ALL materials carefully BEFORE installation. Warranties & Claims DO NOT cover materials with visible defects once they are installed.  It is the responsibility of the installer/owner to determine if the job site sub floor and job site conditions are environmentally and structurally acceptable for wood flooring installation. We decline any responsibility for wood floor failure resulting from or connected with the sub floor, subsurface, job site damage or deficiencies after hardwood flooring has been installed. Time at which to install hardwood flooring: Lay only after sheetrock and tile work are thoroughly dried and all but the final woodwork and trim have been completed. The building interior should have been dried and seasoned with a comfortable working temperature of at least 60° F and a relative humidity of 45-55% should exist during installation. ]]><![CDATA[How do I figure out how much hardwood to purchase?]]>Sun, 23 Jan 2011 03:54:48 GMThttp://www.millstonefloor.com/blog/how-do-i-figure-out-how-much-hardwood-to-purchaseMost flooring is priced by the square foot but is sold by the box.
The square footage is the actual measurement of the area to be covered by flooring. A waste factor of 5% must be added to the amount of square footage of flooring needed to allow for cutting waste.
Example:  10′ x 15′ room
10’x 15’ = 150 sq. ft.
5% x 150 sq. ft. = 7.5 sq. ft. = 8 sq ft
Total sq. ft needed = 158 sq. ft.
Sq. ft. per box = 18 sq. ft.
158/18 = 8.8 = 9 boxes
Number of boxes purchased = 9 boxes
The cutting waste also allows for some minor defects if any in the wood to be cut out. ]]><![CDATA[How & Where do I install the Millstone Hardwood Flooring Products?]]>Sun, 23 Jan 2011 03:28:04 GMThttp://www.millstonefloor.com/blog/how-where-do-i-install-the-millstone-hardwood-flooring-productsSolid ¾” - Nail/Staple down – 15 lb felt paper recommended.
All Engineered - Nail/Staple/Float
FLOAT using a leading brand 2 in 1 (moisture barrier) floating floor pad required with leading brand PVA 2 floating floor adhesive.
Solid Floors CANNOT be Floated.
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