Engineered Wood Flooring Over Concrete

Planning Your Installation
Step 1Plan on this project taking at least two days for the actual installation. You can't walk on the floor for 24 hours after it's been glued down, so make sure you leave yourself a way to leave the room without walking on the boards. You’ll have to finish the last few rows the following day.


Step 2Bring the flooring into the room so the wood planks can acclimate to the room’s temperature and humidity for at least 72 hours before installation. This reduces problems associated with moisture, such as warping and fit. Stack the flooring in a flat position in the room or rooms where it's to be installed and allow it to acclimate.


Step 3Check the moisture level of the subfloor to make sure the floor is within the manufacturer’s recommendations. If your moisture level isn't within manufacturer’s recommendations, stop the installation and call a Lowe’s associate for help.


Step 4Once you have prepped the subfloor, carefully sweep and vacuum the surface on which the flooring will be installed.


Step 5There are many types of glue on the market. Since moisture can be an issue for wood flooring, it's best to use a glue that has some type of moisture resistance. Many glue systems have two parts: a moisture barrier that's applied before installation and a glue that works with the moisture barrier to secure the floor. A great example is the Bostik glue system which uses Bostik MVP as the moisture barrier and Bostik Best as the glue.


Step 6Check the planks for warping and defects, which typically affect around 5% of the product. These boards are unusable and should be discarded. If more than 5% of the product is defective, stop the installation and call a Lowe’s associate for help.


Installing the First Rows
Step 1Put on your safety glasses and latex gloves.


Step 2Place spacers between the flooring and the wall for the expansion gap.

• Be sure to check the manufacturer’s recommendations for the appropriate expansion gap.

Step 3Trowel out enough glue for two to three rows at a time since you can't walk on the glue.

• Make sure you have the correct trowel for the type of glue you're using.
• Pour glue out of the bucket by tipping the bucket on its side allowing a small amount of glue to pour out.
• Use the trowel to cut the glue off.
• Trowel the glue by holding the trowel at a 45-degree angle and using enough pressure to make sure the teeth are in contact with the concrete.

Step 4Using the straightest boards, lay the first row of flooring along the guideline, with the tongue side facing the room.

• This will serve as a guide for the rest of the room or house.
• Press the wood firmly into the glue to ensure proper adhesive transfer.
  • The ridges of the glue from troweling should be in contact with the subfloor and also the back of the plank.
• Use the dead blow hammer and gently tap the tapping block against the flooring to ensure a tight fit.
  
  • It's important to use a tapping block so you don't damage the tongue and groove system.

Step 5For the second row, fit the groove on the tongue of the first row.

• Once again, use the dead blow hammer and gently tap the tapping block against the flooring to ensure a tight fit.

Step 6Place the second row so that the ends are at least 6 inches apart in each row.

• This will help strengthen the floor.
• This will also give the floor a staggered look, so you may need to cut the first plank.
• To cut the flooring, lay the plank on its face and cut with a circular saw.
  
  • Make sure you’re using the correct blade to cut the flooring.
  • Make sure you allow for the appropriate expansion gap.