GLUE DOWN INSTALLATION
Tools & Materials: Hammer, hand or power saw, chalk line, proper adhesive (see below) and proper trowel (see Figure 1 below)
Franklin # 821 or # 811 Urethane Adhesives
Suggested Notched Trowels:
Engineered Plank Flooring (over level sub floor) use a 3/16”w x ¼”d x ½’ c-c V - Notch
Engineered Plank Flooring (over un-level sub floor) use a ¼” c ¼” x ¼” square notch
Thoroughly Clean Sub floor: Remove paint, wax, oil, plaster, “sheetrock Mud” and other foreign materials as well as other surface irregularities. All previous or existing glues or adhesives must be removed before installation. #3 1/2 grit open coat paper may need to be used to grind a concrete sub floor. This will loosen any dirt, loose concrete or contaminates. Sweep or vacuum thoroughly.
Sub floor Preparation: If sub floor is concrete, check for dryness. Use the standard rubber mat or taped plastic test. Remove after 24 hours, and then visually inspect the floor for moisture. If moisture is present, DO NOT LAY. All concrete sub floors on or below grade can also be tested using a Delmhorst moisture meter, Model G-40, Tramex Concrete Encounter or Wagner Concrete meter. (Check floor in several areas). Concrete sub floors must be clean, level, sound and of sufficient compression strength (3000 lbs. P.S.I.) being sure that the surface is not slick. Sections not level such as waviness, trowel marks, etc. is to be eliminated by grinding or the use of a leveling compound. Level to 3/16” in an 8’ radius. In addition to cement sub floors, our products can be installed over dry, flat wood sub floors such as plywood. If the plywood is used as an overlay over an existing sub floor, the thickness of the overlay material must be such as to yield a total 3/4” sub floor thickness. New wood type sub floors should also be checked for moisture using a moisture meter. In general, wood or plywood sub floors should not exceed 12% moisture content or 3% moisture content difference between the wood flooring and sub floor. Document your readings if needed in the future. Sub floor irregularities and undulations may cause any wood flooring installation to develop hollow spots between the flooring and sub floor. These hollow spots are NOT the result of any wood flooring manufacturing defect and are NOT covered by the warranty. As part of your sub floor preparation, remove any existing base, shoe mold, or doorway thresholds. These items can be replaced after installation, but should be replaced in such a way to allow at least 1/4” room for expansion and to avoid difficult scribe cuts. This is easily done by placing a piece of the actual flooring on the sub floor as a height guide for your handsaw or jamb saw. NOTE: Normally, expansion space around the perimeter of the room should be the same distance from the wall as the thickness of the hardwood flooring. See NWFA guide for details.
Suggested Layout Working Line: For 3” material, snap a chalk line 30 1/4” from the wall on the door side of the room. This small area will be your working space and the last area to be installed. Temporarily nail straight board on chalk line. See figure 2 below.
Wet-Lay Installation: When using this method, flooring is to be placed into “wet” adhesive and workers do not work on installed wood. The installation begins with the correct trowel (see above). Spread out the adhesive holding the trowel at a 60° angle. Engage the side tongue of a plank into the groove side of a plank in the installed area. Maneuver board in place so it is flush against the side plank and the end plank. After three to four rows of flooring are installed, tape rows together with removable 3M blue masking tape to prevent the floor from moving. Flooring that is not flat must be weighted to ensure good contact. Additional adhesive may be applied to fill minor voids. As you work, immediately clean any adhesive off pre-finished flooring with Bostik Hand & Tool Towels, Bostik AR 2000 or mineral spirits. Be careful not to rub adhesive residue too aggressively as it will cause a “glossy” halo in the factory finish. After the large part of the room is installed, go to starting area, remove the nailed starter boards, and complete the installation working out of the room. If you must walk on the floor, secure rows with blue tape and step carefully. When installation is complete, use wedges to hold the floor tight. Roll floor with 100 lb roller to insure transfer of adhesive. Installed floor will begin to hold tight in 8 hours, depending on humidity and temperature. Let installed floor cure for 16 before exposing to heavy traffic, and remove wedges prior to installing molding. (Consult with Bostik Findley to confirm.)
Tools & Materials: Hammer, hand or power saw, chalk line, proper adhesive (see below) and proper trowel (see Figure 1 below)
Franklin # 821 or # 811 Urethane Adhesives
Suggested Notched Trowels:
Engineered Plank Flooring (over level sub floor) use a 3/16”w x ¼”d x ½’ c-c V - Notch
Engineered Plank Flooring (over un-level sub floor) use a ¼” c ¼” x ¼” square notch
Thoroughly Clean Sub floor: Remove paint, wax, oil, plaster, “sheetrock Mud” and other foreign materials as well as other surface irregularities. All previous or existing glues or adhesives must be removed before installation. #3 1/2 grit open coat paper may need to be used to grind a concrete sub floor. This will loosen any dirt, loose concrete or contaminates. Sweep or vacuum thoroughly.
Sub floor Preparation: If sub floor is concrete, check for dryness. Use the standard rubber mat or taped plastic test. Remove after 24 hours, and then visually inspect the floor for moisture. If moisture is present, DO NOT LAY. All concrete sub floors on or below grade can also be tested using a Delmhorst moisture meter, Model G-40, Tramex Concrete Encounter or Wagner Concrete meter. (Check floor in several areas). Concrete sub floors must be clean, level, sound and of sufficient compression strength (3000 lbs. P.S.I.) being sure that the surface is not slick. Sections not level such as waviness, trowel marks, etc. is to be eliminated by grinding or the use of a leveling compound. Level to 3/16” in an 8’ radius. In addition to cement sub floors, our products can be installed over dry, flat wood sub floors such as plywood. If the plywood is used as an overlay over an existing sub floor, the thickness of the overlay material must be such as to yield a total 3/4” sub floor thickness. New wood type sub floors should also be checked for moisture using a moisture meter. In general, wood or plywood sub floors should not exceed 12% moisture content or 3% moisture content difference between the wood flooring and sub floor. Document your readings if needed in the future. Sub floor irregularities and undulations may cause any wood flooring installation to develop hollow spots between the flooring and sub floor. These hollow spots are NOT the result of any wood flooring manufacturing defect and are NOT covered by the warranty. As part of your sub floor preparation, remove any existing base, shoe mold, or doorway thresholds. These items can be replaced after installation, but should be replaced in such a way to allow at least 1/4” room for expansion and to avoid difficult scribe cuts. This is easily done by placing a piece of the actual flooring on the sub floor as a height guide for your handsaw or jamb saw. NOTE: Normally, expansion space around the perimeter of the room should be the same distance from the wall as the thickness of the hardwood flooring. See NWFA guide for details.
Suggested Layout Working Line: For 3” material, snap a chalk line 30 1/4” from the wall on the door side of the room. This small area will be your working space and the last area to be installed. Temporarily nail straight board on chalk line. See figure 2 below.
Wet-Lay Installation: When using this method, flooring is to be placed into “wet” adhesive and workers do not work on installed wood. The installation begins with the correct trowel (see above). Spread out the adhesive holding the trowel at a 60° angle. Engage the side tongue of a plank into the groove side of a plank in the installed area. Maneuver board in place so it is flush against the side plank and the end plank. After three to four rows of flooring are installed, tape rows together with removable 3M blue masking tape to prevent the floor from moving. Flooring that is not flat must be weighted to ensure good contact. Additional adhesive may be applied to fill minor voids. As you work, immediately clean any adhesive off pre-finished flooring with Bostik Hand & Tool Towels, Bostik AR 2000 or mineral spirits. Be careful not to rub adhesive residue too aggressively as it will cause a “glossy” halo in the factory finish. After the large part of the room is installed, go to starting area, remove the nailed starter boards, and complete the installation working out of the room. If you must walk on the floor, secure rows with blue tape and step carefully. When installation is complete, use wedges to hold the floor tight. Roll floor with 100 lb roller to insure transfer of adhesive. Installed floor will begin to hold tight in 8 hours, depending on humidity and temperature. Let installed floor cure for 16 before exposing to heavy traffic, and remove wedges prior to installing molding. (Consult with Bostik Findley to confirm.)
