FLOATING INSTALLATION
When choosing the floating method for engineered wood flooring, the subfloor must be flat to within 3/16” per 10’ radius. The Millstone Hardwood is not warranted for damage due to movement or flexing of the floor when the floating installation method is used.
Millstone Wood Floors installed using the floating method can be installed above grade, on grade, or below grade. When installing over concrete or below grade, a moisture barrier of 6 – 8 mil plastic sheeting is required. Loose lay the sheeting with the seams overlapped 8 inches, and lapped up the wall 4 inches. The plastic can be trimmed at the walls after the molding is installed. Be sure to tape the seams with a plastic packaging tape.
Once the sub floor preparation is complete, and the 6 – 8 mil plastic sheeting is installed, you are ready to install Healthier Choice / Sound Solution Underlayment. Determine the direction that the flooring will run and install the underlayment the same lengthwise direction you plan to install the flooring. Roll out the underlayment butting the edges being sure not to overlap the edges. Be sure to tape the seams with plastic packaging tape.
Once the decision has been made as to the direction the flooring will run, be sure to allow for expansion space (thickness of flooring) around the perimeter of the room. Begin by snapping a chalk line 5” plus the expansion space off the starting wall. If the starting row is out of square, it is recommended that the first row of boards be scribed to allow for expansion, and a straight working line. Use wedges to secure the planks during installation at both the side and ends of each row. Always work with the tongue facing away from the starting wall.
Before starting to glue planks, dry lay (no glue used) a trial layout of the first two rows of flooring. Working from left to right, install planks so that the tongue faces out. Leave a minimum of expansion space the thickness of the floor that is being installed, between flooring and wall. When reaching the end of the first row, cut the plank as necessary to fit. (An easy way to mark the last plank in the row is to place the plank in position with the side tongue against the side of the previously laid plank and the end of the plank against the spacing wedge. Mark across the plank with a pencil and cut along this line).
Insert spacers around all vertical walls every 8” to maintain the expansion space between the flooring and wall. Look for walls that are not straight and use spacers as needed to keep the flooring square and straight.
Apply Franklin Titebond Tongue and Groove Glue in the groove of each plank as you install. Begin 2” from the end and place a 1/8” bead of glue the entire length of the board stopping approximately 2” from the end of the board. Be sure to fully glue the end joint also. (You may want test the glue application on some scrap pieces prior to installation to ensure proper glue transfer and coverage). Failure to follow proper glue application will void all warranties.
Stagger a minimum of 6” between end joints of adjacent planks end joints should not repeat visually across the floor. The floor can be installed in successive rows, or with a stair step approach. We recommend using the stair step method to ensure a tight fit for the first few rows and limiting board separation during the initial set-up. Always use a random pattern to begin the installation.
Most often the last row does not fit in width. When this occurs, follow this simple procedure. Lay a row of boards unglued, tongue toward the wall directly on top of the last row installed. Take a piece of engineered floor with the face down and the tongue side against the wall. The resulting line gives the proper width for the last row which when cut can be wedged into place using a pull bar. Be sure that when the installation is finished the wedges are removed and the expansion spaces are covered with the appropriate moldings. Never attach any moldings to a floating floor. This will cause an obstruction that could cause a failure of an otherwise perfect installation.
Remember, the use of Healthier Choice Underlayment and Franklin Titebond Tongue and Groove Glue will help make the installation much easier. Be sure and follow the manufacturer’s instructions .
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR
ENGINEERED WOOD FLOORING
IMPORTANT!
Inspect ALL materials carefully BEFORE installation. Warranties & Claims DO NOT cover materials with visible defects once they are installed. It is the responsibility of the installer/owner to determine if the job site sub floor and job site conditions are environmentally and structurally acceptable for wood flooring installation. We decline any responsibility for wood floor failure resulting from or connected with the sub floor, subsurface, job site damage or deficiencies after hardwood flooring has been installed. Time at which to install hardwood flooring: Lay only after sheetrock and tile work are thoroughly dried and all but the final woodwork and trim have been completed. The building interior should have been dried and seasoned with a comfortable working temperature of at least 60° F and a relative humidity of 45-55% should exist during installation.
When choosing the floating method for engineered wood flooring, the subfloor must be flat to within 3/16” per 10’ radius. The Millstone Hardwood is not warranted for damage due to movement or flexing of the floor when the floating installation method is used.
Millstone Wood Floors installed using the floating method can be installed above grade, on grade, or below grade. When installing over concrete or below grade, a moisture barrier of 6 – 8 mil plastic sheeting is required. Loose lay the sheeting with the seams overlapped 8 inches, and lapped up the wall 4 inches. The plastic can be trimmed at the walls after the molding is installed. Be sure to tape the seams with a plastic packaging tape.
Once the sub floor preparation is complete, and the 6 – 8 mil plastic sheeting is installed, you are ready to install Healthier Choice / Sound Solution Underlayment. Determine the direction that the flooring will run and install the underlayment the same lengthwise direction you plan to install the flooring. Roll out the underlayment butting the edges being sure not to overlap the edges. Be sure to tape the seams with plastic packaging tape.
Once the decision has been made as to the direction the flooring will run, be sure to allow for expansion space (thickness of flooring) around the perimeter of the room. Begin by snapping a chalk line 5” plus the expansion space off the starting wall. If the starting row is out of square, it is recommended that the first row of boards be scribed to allow for expansion, and a straight working line. Use wedges to secure the planks during installation at both the side and ends of each row. Always work with the tongue facing away from the starting wall.
Before starting to glue planks, dry lay (no glue used) a trial layout of the first two rows of flooring. Working from left to right, install planks so that the tongue faces out. Leave a minimum of expansion space the thickness of the floor that is being installed, between flooring and wall. When reaching the end of the first row, cut the plank as necessary to fit. (An easy way to mark the last plank in the row is to place the plank in position with the side tongue against the side of the previously laid plank and the end of the plank against the spacing wedge. Mark across the plank with a pencil and cut along this line).
Insert spacers around all vertical walls every 8” to maintain the expansion space between the flooring and wall. Look for walls that are not straight and use spacers as needed to keep the flooring square and straight.
Apply Franklin Titebond Tongue and Groove Glue in the groove of each plank as you install. Begin 2” from the end and place a 1/8” bead of glue the entire length of the board stopping approximately 2” from the end of the board. Be sure to fully glue the end joint also. (You may want test the glue application on some scrap pieces prior to installation to ensure proper glue transfer and coverage). Failure to follow proper glue application will void all warranties.
Stagger a minimum of 6” between end joints of adjacent planks end joints should not repeat visually across the floor. The floor can be installed in successive rows, or with a stair step approach. We recommend using the stair step method to ensure a tight fit for the first few rows and limiting board separation during the initial set-up. Always use a random pattern to begin the installation.
Most often the last row does not fit in width. When this occurs, follow this simple procedure. Lay a row of boards unglued, tongue toward the wall directly on top of the last row installed. Take a piece of engineered floor with the face down and the tongue side against the wall. The resulting line gives the proper width for the last row which when cut can be wedged into place using a pull bar. Be sure that when the installation is finished the wedges are removed and the expansion spaces are covered with the appropriate moldings. Never attach any moldings to a floating floor. This will cause an obstruction that could cause a failure of an otherwise perfect installation.
Remember, the use of Healthier Choice Underlayment and Franklin Titebond Tongue and Groove Glue will help make the installation much easier. Be sure and follow the manufacturer’s instructions .
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR
ENGINEERED WOOD FLOORING
IMPORTANT!
Inspect ALL materials carefully BEFORE installation. Warranties & Claims DO NOT cover materials with visible defects once they are installed. It is the responsibility of the installer/owner to determine if the job site sub floor and job site conditions are environmentally and structurally acceptable for wood flooring installation. We decline any responsibility for wood floor failure resulting from or connected with the sub floor, subsurface, job site damage or deficiencies after hardwood flooring has been installed. Time at which to install hardwood flooring: Lay only after sheetrock and tile work are thoroughly dried and all but the final woodwork and trim have been completed. The building interior should have been dried and seasoned with a comfortable working temperature of at least 60° F and a relative humidity of 45-55% should exist during installation.